1966 GTO L92 / 6L80E / Air Ride Street Challenge Project

[Kevin O]

If you think about it, this is basically an LS2 new GTO motor, but set up with the truck intake and accessory drive.    So it is more GTO than you might think!

[Kevin O]

Good news!!!  The 6L80E is tunable with the EFILive! 

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=7124&page=2

 

That IS good news!   We'll have to make sure the harness is correct so we can communicate with the trans.    Cool stuff.

[Buster]

I like the car but not the motor combination.  I like a Pontiac to remain  a true Pontiac.  Wheres the love.

Interbrand swaping is nothing new at all, remember this is the origin of hotrodding. The factory's themselves have been doing this for years. From 1955 - 58 the "Pontiac"  V8 was the V8 option for GMC trucks: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GMC_V8_engine . The  1961 F85 Olds, Pontiac tempest, Buick special, all used the aluminum "Buick" 215 V8 this short deck nail head motor is also the exact design V8 that the british made Rover/Land Rover trucks use:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rover_V8_engine . Not only that look at how the "Buick"  3800 V6 is used today in all GM vehicles from mini vans to passenger cars, that being said I personally don't see anything wrong with the goat build up. If it's cool do it!!!! Now lets stick to the important issues and see this bad boy come together!

[Kevin O]

Good point, Buster.    I think it's also important to note that we're keeping the apparantly original 389 with the car, so someone could return it to stock some day.    I like to do that whenever possible... who knows, 20 years from now, '66 GTOs may be worh a million dollars with the original plant under the hood.     Just looking at Barrett-Jackson tells you that this may happen in 2 years.    At any rate, this car is being built to drive, so the owner has named it "Driven-1".

[67RSSS]

I used to get pretty stinkin' fussy about originality, but over the last several years the clones have gotten so good, they are better than the real cars.  It has gotten too damn difficult to truly know an original car, and I think the prices you are seeing on known clones and 'tributes' reflects this uncertainty.  We have finally decided to ignore originality, and build enjoyability into our cars, and a swap like this is the most enjoyable way to go.  Power, reliability, fuel economy, and the sheer wow factor all play here.  Besides, I am running accross too many supposed original, untouched cars that have been painted, carb replaced, interior redone (usually poorly), etc.  In my eyes, that is no longer original.  Some collectors even go so far as to discount any vehicle that is missing any original service items (plugs, wires, belts, battery).  On top of that, I really like modern braking, and think that even original cars from before about 67 should have a split master cylinder resevoir if it is used on the road.

[Kevin O]

I've seen a few original cars that I wouldn't mess with... and some that we are.    Take our '71 Olds - the only non original part on the car was the carb, the belts, hoses, plugs, wires, exhaust, tires, and brake pads.    And all the replacement parts were GM spec stuff.   The car even had the original clutch in it.   The problem is that it was pretty beat.    Now it's got new steel, new interior, upgraded suspension, etc., but all the original parts are staying with the car.     

[Kevin O]

OK, so after several more test fits, it looks like we're going to need the F-body accessory drive system to clear the power steering box.    We'll know more on the trans tunnel in the morning, but it looks like that getting cut as well.    The process of installing, removing, installing, removing... it's not fun to watch, so we're holding off on the video update until we have a better handle on the fit situation. 

[67RSSS]

Kevin,
Depending on the budget, you could also look into one of the aftermarket accesorie systems.  March makes on that tucks up nicely, and S&P (Street and Performance) offer many kits and brackets.  None of them are cheap by any stretch of the imagination.  Remember too that you will have to change the water pump and the balancer when you go from the truck offset to the F-body offset. 

[Kevin O]

Thanks 67 - we'll see if we can get the whole shebang in one source if we can.     Budget is a concern, and so is ease of installation and the ability to service it down the line.

[67RSSS]

No problem.  Also, the balancer is a real PITA if you know what I mean.  Make sure you verify the install procedure either with a factory amnual, or from a Haynes/Chilton type manual.  I also strongly suggest you get a new bolt.  They are not expensive, but like most of the bolts on these things they are meant to be used once.  You will need a flywheel turning tool to keep the engine from rotating while you cahnge the balancer.  They are cheap, and the screwdriver trick really doesn't work well...

Lot of ideas between pages 80 and 105 on the S&P catalog, but I reccomend you call Mark or Tom at S&P and discuss your project.  Maybe you only need to relocate the P/S or use a different unit to get it to work.  That would be a LOT cheaper than moving everything.  Just a thought...

[Kevin O]

Can you just use a different power steering bracket setup and not the rest?   I dunno.   I've pulled balancers off these things before, but not installed one, personally.     I'll have to look into getting a good install tool.    Did you just use the bolt?   I'm not sure if that works.

Mark at S&P is aware of our project.    We got the engine plates and the oil pan from them, along with the fuel filter.

What did you do for your fuel system?    I think you used a Rock Valley tank, right?

[67RSSS]

Don't forget that the f-body setup puts the alternator low and tight on the driver side...



Glad to know that Mark is up to speed on your project.  They really do know a lot over there.  As for our fuel system, as you saw in the fluids hookup, we used the 99 corvette regulator/filter assembly and an intank LS1 style pump.  The pump, custom stainless tank, and sender are from Rock Valley ($1200, 5 weeks).  I know that a lot of people are modifying (new reproduction) stock tanks to work.  I think TANKS inc. has a kit for doing this.  Check on LS1tech for info on modifying tanks.  I know that Schitzo moded his own before there were kits to do it.  Since you know how to weld, you will save a ton of time and cash modding a repro tank for your project.  Repop tanks run about $130.  The temptation to use an external pump is very high, but avoid it.  They are noisy and have a shorter lifespan.  The fuel provides a lot of cooling benefit.  I do believe that Aeromotive also has an in tank setup, but like everything they sell, it is pricey.

[67RSSS]

Technically, you are supposed to use a fancy tool for putting the balancer back on, but several people have used the old bolt to slide it on, and then tightened it with the new bolt.  I am not recomending that, just noting that it has been done...

[Kevin O]

Thanks for the info.    I've done the external pump trick on efi swaps before, but we ended up with a fuel slosh issue.    We used an OE Bosch pump and it's been churning for nearly 20k miles, but you're not happy if the level falls below 1/4 tank.

We'll probably do a repro tank with an in-tank pump.   I'll do more research on that.

The low alternator seems to be a potential problem on the GTO as the steering box is right there.    We're considering a possible rack and pinion, but I don't think there's much room for headers and steering shaft that way.   

[67RSSS]

A lot of the intank kits have a "basket" to help with sloch.  In fact, the only reason I did the stainless tank is all the baffling since my wife hates to put gas in the vehicles and runs them right to the end.  Before you jump on the "rack-n-peanut" steering, take a look at other A-body swaps.  I know there are a few on the site, and most of them are LS1's.  How close is the P/S resevoir?  It is pretty big on the truck routing.  THe alternator on the f-body routing is pretty tightly mounted.  The corvette routing with the seperate P/S resevoir may also work for you.  I would definately give Mark a call, it may be as simple as changing you pump assembly to a divorved pump/resevoir setup.